In part one entitled: Do-It-Yourself Corner Ceramic Shower Seat Installation, we talked about the pros of installing a more permanent solution in your shower enclosure. Now we will discuss the materials and procedures for installing your brand new ceramic shower seat. You have already decided where you want it to go now lets get on with what you will need to get the job done and the skill set you will need.

The materials you will need are:

1) a shower seat kit

2) soft cloth and sponge

3) tiles and masonry mortar mix

4) grout and silicone caulk

5) latex mastic or thin-set mortar

The tools you will need, you can acquire at any local home improvement or hardware store. Some you may even have kicking around your home already. You will need masking tape, a felt tip marker, screwdriver and a drill. Some additional items you may have to purchase are: 3/8 inch diameter carbide-tip masonry drill bit, tile cutter, mortar trowel, rubber float and a trowel with 1/8 inch notches.

To begin, hold the metal pan in place on top of a strip of masking tape and mark off the screw holes on the tape with your felt tip pen. (Tip: the tape keeps the drill from slipping on the slick tile while you drill). Drill through the marks using a 3/8 in diameter carbide-tip masonry bit then remove the tape. Next insert the hollow-wall screw anchors that came with the seat kit halfway into the holes in the tile. The way it works is as you tighten the screws, the anchors slowly open, attaching the seat firmly to the tile wall. This is important: to create a waterproof seal, dab silicone caulk generously around each anchor head to keep out any moisture then push the anchors all the way in to complete the seal.

Next we attach the metal pan. So, as you are holding the metal pan in position on the wall, put the screws through the holes in the metal pan and into the wall anchors at which point you need to tighten the screws in the wall anchors to firmly secure the seat pan to your tile wall. And to seal the deal so to speak, apply a thin deposit of silicone caulk along the top frame of the aluminum bench.

Now comes the slightly messy but fun part, mixing the masonry mortar by following the supplier’s directions. Then using a trowel, pack the mortar compactly into the triangular frame until it pushes its way out the holes on the face of the seat frame then smooth it all down. Once this is done, apply a slightly wetter thin layer of mortar onto the front edge. Now the mortar must cure for at least twenty-four hours before we can proceed any further.

You can be creative with this part or you can go the conventional route. Cover the top face of your bench with a tile color that matches the rest of your shower walls or you can gent more creative and use solid-surface materials or even a slab of stone. It’s usually best to either have the top or the front surface of your bench match your tiles to create unity in the design. Ok lets get on with it, dry lay (without mortar) a full tile in the center of the bench and allow it to hang over the front facing edge by about ¼ of an inch then proceed to lay the remaining tiles, continuing out in all directions to the back and corners. Using your tile cutter, trim the tiles that go against the walls then reposition (dry lay) them to around the full tiles to make sure everything fits nicely.

Once this is confirmed, displace all the tiles temporarily and spread thin-set mortar or premixed latex mastic on the top and front of your shower bench using a 1/8 inch notched trowel. First lay in the top tiles first and then finish with the edge tiles making sure to press firmly and let it dry overnight. When dried the next day, squeeze grout into the joints using a rubber float. It is very important that you press firmly forcing the grout into every crevice to seal out any moisture. Let this set for about a half an hour then using a damp (not soaking wet) sponge, wipe off any excess grout on the tile surface. When the grout is dry, buff the surface of the tile with a shammy or soft cotton cloth and allow the grout to set for another twenty-four hours. Almost there! As a final waterproof insurance measure, bead a thin line of silicone caulk around the border of your new ceramic tile shower seat. Just let the caulk dry for another six to eight hours and you are ready to enjoy your new shower seat.

If you missed Part One on How to Renovate Your Bathroom Shower Seat Tiles then read it here or you can check out this other related bathroom renovation article about Bathroom Counter Top Materials in your washroom.

Bathroom Makeover Home

Hansgrohe 28697000 Raindance Tile Spacer, Chrome

American Standard 751755-100 Universal Tile Bead Kit (single)

Makita 4101RH 5" Masonry Saw, for wet cutting of tile, masonry and concrete

HENKEL DM405P21 6 OZ CLEAR POLYSEAMSEAL TUB AND TILE #6412, Clear

DeWalt D24001 Tile Saw Stand for D24000

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1. The Benefits of Marble Tile in Your Bathroom
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3. Ceramic Tile – Is It a Good Choice?
4. How to Install a New Porcelain Soap Dish on Your Bathroom Tile Shower Wall
5. Do-It-Yourself Corner Ceramic Shower Seat Installation - Part One